The Best of San Miniato, Italy

By: Travel With Wally

We had such a pleasant time visiting San Miniato despite the poor weather.  It may not be big, but it makes up for it in charm and views.  The quaint village tops the hills along the tain route between Pisa and Florence, but even so I had remained oblivious to it for the past year.  Luckily a friend brought it up as they had just attended the annual truffle festival.  Needless to say, my interest was peaked.

The following weekend we made our way way by train to the small station and took the bus to the top of the hill where the old town center watches over the valley.  I was so happy to have had San Miniato brought to my attention.  We wandered the streets, stood under eaves to shelter from the rain, and indulged in so many delightful food samples.  

We stopped for a coffee in a small restaurant that had a back wall made of windows.  I wish we would have been hungry enough for lunch to justify sitting down to enjoy gazing out on the neighboring valley. I see it as just one more reason to return.

When arriving in San Miniato you will come to a crossroads.  Go either way to be rewarded with things to see.  To the left you will find Piazza della Repubblica, the Cathedral of San Miniato, a museum, and the famous  Rocca   tower. 

To the right, you will find pleasant bars and restaurants that are located along snaking streets.  Make sure to check out all the nooks and crannies to make sure you soak up the stunning views. 

A Quick History of San Miniato

You may also hear the village referred to as San Miniato al Tedesco.  This is to help distinguish it from the San Miniato al Monte convent which is only 40km away in the historic city of Florence.  

‘Tedesco’ is Italian for German, or relating to Germany.  This area was ruled by mostly German Imperial vicars (priests) until the 13th century.

Amazingly, San Miniato’s presence dates back to the paleolithic era.  It was well known to the Etruscans and the Romans.  The Romans used it as a military outpost (Quarto) due to its central location.  

Located atop three hills near the Arno, the village is ideal for being a lookout for the valley.  It stood watch out over and towards what are now the cities of Pisa and Livorno.  San Miniato’s location was also central to several important travel routes. It sits along the route from Northern Europe to Rome, as well as the route from Lucca-Siena and Florence-Pisa.  Due to being along these highly-trafficked and important routes, San Miniato was frequented by both friendly and hostile groups.  

With a growing population at the end of the 10th century, the village was protected by a moat and castle.  City walls along with defensive towers were erected in the 12th century when Italy was being taken by Frederick Barbarossa.  San Miniato stayed under the control of Florence, except for a brief moment when Pisa convinced them to rebel (1367-70).  This happened again during the Napoleanic conquest.  

During WWII the famous Rocca (castle) was destroyed, but it was then rebuilt in 1969. 

What is San Miniato Known For?

Truffles!!

Have you ever wondered where the largest white truffle was found?  I know, it is a question that you didn’t even know you had.  But, cool fact, it was in San Miniato!  Back in October of 1954, a truffle hunter from Balconevisi found a white truffle weighing 2,520kg.  You can even find it listed in the Guiness Book of World Records.

But aren’t Truffles Chocolate?

When I first moved to Italy, that is what I thought.  I always associated the term with round and decadent chocolate morsels.  But there’s something else that’s delicious with that name, and it’s a type of mushroom. 

Truffles grow underground, which makes them just a bit difficult to find, if you don’t know where to look, that is.  Truffles like a very specific environment.  They’re picky little fungi.  The truffle’s niche needs happen to be found in the San Miniato hills. 

Be warned, truffles are not pretty and they smell of fermented cheese.  One may wonder why people even started eating them.  But they are DELICiOUS!  If you ever have the chance to have a fresh truffle, take advantage of it. They are admittedly not cheap, but they are worth the splurge every so often. 

In the hills of San Miniato, the famed white truffles are harvested between September and December, but the area is not limited to just one tuber. Marzuolo and black truffles are also harvested during different parts of the year.  

Truffle hunting is highly regulated and is not a simple endeavor.  Many truffle hunters come from families that have been hunting for generations.  Lots of truffle hunters even train their trusty dogs to smell out the pungent fungus. Something interesting that I learned is that the dogs behavior can even tell the hunter the size of the found truffle. 

What to Do in San Miniato

Although wandering around and exploring is one of our favorite things to do in new places, there are also other interesting places to go while in San Miniato.

Piazza della Repubblica

This is an old and subtle piazza. The beautiful building bordering the square used to be a seminary built for the clergy.  The piazza is not far from the cathedral, making it an ideal location to start your adventure. 

The walls of the building are covered in beautiful frescoes and the entire area has a charming atmosphere.  When we visited, they had tents set up with booths for the white truffle festival that occurs every November.  This made it an extra special trip for us.  

Cathedral of San Miniato

The cathedral of San Miniato can be easily reached from Piazza della Repubblica.  When you pass through the arch to the piazza, you will see a covered set of stairs leading up to the cathedral.  The entry is also labeled on the outside.  

The cathedral’s brick facade is simple yet beautiful.  The surrounding area has beautiful views of the village, trees and a small garden.  I found it to be incredibly peaceful and charming. There was yet another tent dedicated to wine and other fine truffle products for the festival. 

From here you can make the climb up to Rocca di Federico II.  

Museo diocesano di Arte Sacra

The museum houses the famous art of San Miniato.  The village’s long history and creative citizenry add up to no shortage of art.  Founded in 1966, the museum was one of the first Diocesan (church related) museums in Italy.  

You will find bronze crosses, wooden statues, ceramics, canvases, and more in the 5 rooms that make up the special exhibits.  The art displayed was created by many famous artists and is not to be missed. 

You can find more information regarding hours and cost on this website.  Unfortunately, it is in Italian but can be translated.

Cost: € 2.50 and € 5 combined with the tower of Matilda

Rocca di Federico II

As you head up the hill from the cathedral, you will see a two-sided ramp that leads up to the Rocca di Federico II. There is a sign labeling the path as well.  Continue up the steps to be greeted by a large green yard, the reconstructed tower, and sweeping Tuscan views.  

The area is worth coming to for the views alone.  You are greeted by the quintessential scenery that you imagine when Tuscany comes to mind.  

As I mentioned previously, the tower was reconstructed after being destroyed during WWII.  They were so dedicated to its autenticity that they left the look of aging and slow decay.  

Access to the tower is allowed until 3PM for €5

• If you are interested in seeing more churches, be sure to check out Chiesa della Santissima Annunziata and Chiesa di San Domenico. 

Festivals in San Miniato

Mostra Mercato di Tartufi Festa Aquilone

You can’t be a village in Italy that is famous for truffles and not have a truffle festival. Occurring the last three weekends of November, the festival celebrates all things truffle. 

As the village’s biggest and most well-known festival, they go all out.  The month of November is dedicated to cooking demonstrations and extensive markets. 

When we attended the festival on its last weekend in November, it was a cold and rainy day.  But we didn’t let that dampen our excitement about all of the truffle-inspired products we were about to experience. 

What do you think of when you think of truffles?  Well, they have it at this festival.  From honey to chocolate to beer.  They have it all.  I admit to not being a huge fan of the chocolate/truffle combo. I love chocolate and I love truffles, but apparently not together.  

You will be presented with sample after sample of products like cheeses and olives.  We didn’t even need to worry about finding lunch.  If you are hungry, help yourself to a wild-boar sandwich or a truffle arancino.  There is no shortage of food for you to enjoy. 

Theater Festival of San Miniato

Taking place in June and July each year, it is the oldest production theater festival in Italy. Presented by The Institute for Popular Dramas, the plays that are put on are unique in that they all pertain to the meaning of life and its pursuit.  The plays take on a Christian aspect and relate to the Western World.  The performances are powerful and thought-provoking. 

How to Get to San Miniato

San Miniato is located directly between Pisa and Florence, and the train that runs between the two cities also stops there.  Because the village is at a higher elevation, you will have to catch a bus for the 4km climb to the center. 

You are also able to easily access San Miniato by car. 

By Train

Station: San Miniato-Fucecchio

Time from Pisa: ~30 minutes

Time From Florence: ~40 minutes

When you arrive at the station, you will need to take the bus the rest of the way.  Buses come regularly, but be sure to check the bus schedule for times (including return times to help plan your day.) When you leave the train station, the bus stop is to the right next to an old phone booth. 

By Car

Be sure to be on the SGC Firenze-Pisa-Livorno, take the San Miniato exit and follow the signs to the top of the hill.  There is a paid parking lot at the top.  The old town is located at the top of the hill, not to be confused with Basso at the bottom.  

Where to Stay in San Miniato

San Miniato makes for a wonderful side trip on your way to visit Pisa and/or Lucca.  Because of its small size, it won’t take an etroardinary amount of time to explore.  But it would make a wonderful base for visiting cities such as Florence, Pisa, Lucca, and more.  Perhaps you are on the lookout for a small sweet village to relax and explore the countryside, then San Miniato is the place to be.  We visited just for a day, but here are some great places to stay. 

Vicolo dell’Inferno

• Can accomodate up to 4 people
• Stunning balcony views
• Great central location

San Miniato – Panoramic terrace in the historic center

• Superb reviews
• Enjoy a glass of wine on the terrace
• Extra helpful host & fully stocked fridge