Yeah, yeah, I know. I just wrote a post about our trip to Syracuse! Really though, it was a whole overview of our trip to Sicily. There were two days in Taormina and one day in Syracuse. Now I really want to dive into Syracuse, Sicily. We only spent one day in Syracuse and I think that was just right. I planned that one just right in my book. It gave us time to visit the big sites and still enjoy the open-air market and some lunch. If you like to take things real slow and leisurely then maybe consider two days. I will admit that we are traveling speed demons. Determined to see all that we can in the time allowed.
First thing, our trip was in mid-January. Italy already runs on the slow side. The South runs slower. Now add on the off-season in the South of Italy. On an island. Because of these things, we ran into a lot of closed restaurants and shops. Huge bummer. I suppose that is the extra price one pays for cheap tickets. Either way, it was still really enjoyable. The main attractions were still open.
We arrived at the Syracuse train station at about 10:00 in the morning. And went to the island of Ortygia.
Island of Ortygia
Ortygia (also spelled Ortigia), is a small island connected to Syracuse’s Eastern side by three bridges. It is old, it is historical, and damn is it charming. Even on a rainy morning. If you enjoy empty alleyways and historical sites completely to yourself, then go when it’s raining. If you can. Our experience demonstrated that rain equals few people on Ortygia.
A Taste of Ortygia’s History
If you had not gathered already, this island is old. It was established a long time ago, by that I mean 2,500 years old. And I am referring to being inhabited by humans. That’s pretty mind-boggling. From North to South it is only 1.5km long but still packs a punch for its slight size. The island has been conquered, conquered, and conquered some more. It has been ruled by the Arabs, Greeks, Byzantines, Romans, Spaniards…the list goes on. The architecture of the island reflects the different cultures and groups that occupied the island throughout its history. It was actually populated before the main city of Syracuse had been founded.
What to Do in Syracuse, Sicily
There are many things to keep you busy for a day in Syracuse. Depending on the time allowed you could do all or some of them. My personal favorite was the archeological park.
The Duomo of Syracuse
Constructed in the baroque style, the duomo of Syracuse is hard to miss on the island of Ortygia. It was built 2,400 years ago in the 7th century. It was constructed over the older temple of Athena by Bishop Zosimo and designed by Andrea Palma. The outside is adorned with detailed carvings and statues. As of 2005, the cathedral was designated a world UNESCO site.
It is a beautiful cathedral that you can enjoy both outside and inside. The exterior piazza offers an enjoyable place to soak in the area’s history while sipping an espresso at one of the cafes. The Duomo of Syracuse is definitely not to be missed on your exploration of Orytygia.
The Archeological Park of Neapolis
Before coming to Syracuse, I had read a lot about the archeological park, especially the Ear of Dionysius. I had high expectations, especially for the higher price tag for admission to the park. As budget travelers, we had forgone going through the interior of Castello Maniace at the end of Ortygia so that we felt better about paying the 19 euro/person admission fee.
The Archeological Park of Neapolis is located about a mile and a half from the island of Ortygia but is still walkable. There is a bus that you can hop on as well, but we opted out of looking for a schedule and waiting for the bus and just walked. At first, the park is unassuming and is near a busier road. But once you enter it is peaceful and the paths are well maintained. There is a map near the entrance that shows the best paths to follow based on the time frame that you have for your visit. We were in no immediate hurry and wanted to see everything.
We headed down the first path to the right leading from the entrance. This is the path that will bring you past the Ear of Dionysius. The Ear of Dionysius lives up to its name, it does resemble a large ear. It gets its name not only from its shape but also from its acoustics. It is said that when at the bottom of the cavern the people outside can hear you clear as day.
As you follow the paths you will come to an ancient Greek amphitheater built into the hillside. One thing I thought was lacking was the provision of educational signs. There was little to explain what we were looking at or its significance. The theater was beautiful and you could imagine people sitting on the steps watching performances.
Across the path from where you began is the entrance to what appears to be just a field. Don’t pass this up! It leads you to what resembles a miniature colosseum. The Romans built this amazing structure and here we did find some signs that gave a bit of information on what we were observing.
Overall, I recommend adding this to your day if you have a couple of extra hours.
Castello Maniace
Located at the far point of Ortygia, this castle was built in the 13th century. It has been used to house royalty as well as a military location. It was used up until WWII and then became open to the public. There is a small exhibit as you make your way to the ticket counter that shows different artifacts and statues. It is 7euros/person to enter and explore the castle.
Wander the Alleyways of Ortygia
If you are one that likes to get off of the beaten path and explore nooks and crannies, then you will be over the moon on Ortygia. The alleyways are filled with gems. When we went the rain kept many people from being out and about, we could freely and independently wander. Wandering the streets and alleys of a new city in Italy is always a great way to get the feel of where you are and how the locals live.
Open Air Market
Every day other than Sunday, there is an open-air market that takes place on the island of Ortygia. Here you can find fresh seafood, olives, produce, spices, and more. It is one of the biggest draws to the island. Unfortunately, when we were there many vendors hadn’t shown up. I imagine this to be due to the foul weather.
When you come to the end of the market, near the sea, there is a tasty restaurant that serves tasty sandwiches, Fratelli Burgio.
Fountain of Diana
Okay, so sometimes fountains are just fountains. I have seen so many in Italy along with duomos. They start to become a dime a dozen. I have to say though, the Fountain of Diana is on a different level. I thought it was really beautiful. Diana is the Greek goddess of hunting and protector of Ortygia. She stands in the center of the fountain with her bow and is surrounded by four tritons upon sea horses and pistrici impennati.
The fountain was constructed in 1907 by Giulio Moschetti in Piazza Archimede.
Arethusa Fountain
As you walk along the sea on the Western side of Ortygia you will come up Arethusa Fountain. It is unique in that it is below you. It has vegetation growing in it, including papyrus. The papyrus gives it the nickname the Papyrus Fountain. You may even see some ducks enjoying a swim.
The fountain is named after a young girl, Arethusa, who bathed in a clear and peaceful river where the river god Alpheus resided. Alpheus fell for Arethusa and pursued her. She rejected the god who in turn was pitied by the rest of the gods. The god, Jupiter, turned Alpheus into an underground stream leading to Arethusa. Today this stream leads to the Arethusa fountain.
A Full Day of Exploration
There are many activities and things to see in Syracuse. Some may take more time than others. The fountains are easy to see as you pass by and locations such as the archeological park can take a couple of hours. Whatever you choose to do on your adventure, you are sure to have an exceptional time in Syracuse.
