Montepulciano, Italy: A Complete Guide
Written By: Travel With Wally
Have you been dreaming of a trip to Tuscany, but want to find some charming villages off the beaten path? Along with villages like Pitigliano and Barga, Montepulciano is a true diamond in the rough.
One of Tuscany’s Hidden Gems
South of Siena, you’ll find hills blanketed in vineyards, olive groves, and lush forest. In the middle of this rolling oasis, you will find a small village perched atop a prominent hill. Montepulciano offers stunning panoramic views of the surrounding valleys filled with agricultural gold. The valleys, Val D’Orcia and Val di Chiana offer quintessential Tuscan views, worthy of a postcard. They also produce some scrumptious foods.
Untouched by WWII, Montepulciano retains its medieval and historical charm, which allows visitors to imagine themselves transported back in time. While meandering the charming streets, you may recognize landmarks from the Twilight saga’s second film, New Moon.
In the Twilight book, the gripping Italian storyline takes place in Volterra, but they actually filmed here in Montepulciano. This has drawn in more tourists than in the past, but that doesn’t mean that Montepulciano has lost its famed charm and allure.
Wine is also no stranger to the region, and Montepulciano is a flowing fountain for all wine lovers. You won’t leave the village hungry, either, as it is famous for its pasta and other mouth-watering dishes. With no shortage of food, drink, and activities you will fall head over heels for this charming Tuscan village.
What to do in Montepulciano
Nature
Free of sprawling suburbs, Montepulciano is snuggled into nature like a nesting bird. This gives visitors boundless opportunities to immerse themselves in the out-of-doors. Hop on a bike or walk down the quiet gravel roads lined with Cyprus trees. There is sure to be an activity right for you off this beaten path.
Walk The Streets
Be prepared to walk uphill for a bit when you enter Porta al Prato. Head up, and follow the charming streets. You will pass through several charming Renaissance palazzos on your way to the apex of the hill where you will be greeted by Piazza Grande.
Like so many Italian villages, the best way to experience Montepulciano is by walking the winding streets. Preserved in the past, the village whisks you back to simpler times. Dip into the small artisan shops, take part in a local wine tasting, and watch the city day pass while enjoying a perfectly brewed cup of coffee at one of the many cafes.
Cathedral
Montepulciano’s cathedral sits atop the town’s highest point and shares real estate in what is said to be one of Italy’s most beautiful piazzas. The exterior brick facade was never finished with marble, unlike so many others in the country, but the interior houses several notable pieces of art. Finished in 1401 by Taddeo di Bartolo, Triptych of the Assumption can be found in the cathedral.
If you are a fan of old churches, then you are in luck. The cathedral was built between 1586 and 1680 atop an even older church (The Church of Santa Maria) of which only the old bell tower still stands.
Palazzo Comunale/Piazza Grande
You have made it to the top of Montepulciano! You are now rewarded with a medieval square that is home to historical and beautiful buildings. It is here that you will find the cathedral of Montepulciano as well.
Take a rest and enjoy the peaceful and ancient ambiance from a nearby cafe. Afterward you can climb the tower belonging to the town hall for astonishing views of the Tuscan countryside.
Temple to the Madonna di San Biagio
Just outside of town sits a small yet gorgeous temple that was constructed between 1518 and 1548. The temple is definitely worth a visit. It is home to a frescoed wall that depicts the Madonna or the Madonna of San Biagio, and starting in 1518 it was believed to have the power to produce miracles.
The stone that makes up the temple is a local travertine stone taken from the nearby caves where another church once stood. It was designed by Meric of Antonio da Sangallo the Elder in the astonishing and monumental Tuscan renaissance architectural style.
Bravìo delle Botti (Event)
This highly anticipated event takes place on the last Sunday of August. Montepulciano is made up of 8 districts and in the Bravìo delle Botti, the districts compete for victory by pushing barrels uphill. It is a tradition that has taken place for over 600 years and is highly anticipated.
The competition was once done on horseback, similar to the Palio in Siena, but it was amended in the 17th century so as to maintain social order. It wasn’t until 1974 that it was decided that barrels would be pushed up to the main piazza by two district representatives.
The event is a whole day’s affair beginning in the morning in Piazza Grande when the contestants draw to see where they will be starting the race along with other ritual ceremonies. It isn’t until the evening that the racing actually begins.
It is an extremely exciting day for not only the town’s citizens but also for visitors like you!
Nearby Destinations!
Pitigliano – A Complete Guide
Siena – See Siena in One Day
Wine & Wineries of Montepulciano
Wine: Nobile
I don’t know about you, but I just can’t pass up a glass, or more, of delicious wine, and Montepulciano is the perfect place to indulge in the grape elixir. When visiting, it is easy to find Montepulciano’s most well-known wine, Nobile. Nobile is created using the local Sangiovese grapes, and you will find numerous wineries and tasting rooms throughout the town and countryside.
Nobile is a red wine tasting of cherry, plum, strawberry, and dark berries. The wine is dry with a medium body and high acidity. The wine also pairs well with a wide variety of foods, which makes it both versatile and delightful. It was once known as “the king of wine” and now holds not only the DOC label but also the DOCG.
Don’t pass up the chance to try it right where it is made!
Wineries
Azienda Agricola Ercolani – City Center
Smack in the city center you will find Azienda Agricola Ercolani, the shop that represents the products of the nearby winery. When you visit be prepared to be offered a FREE sampling of their wines, and you can even get a more hearty tasting for a small fee down in the underground city. Pair your tasting with some tasty morsels. Azzienda also produces olive oil and truffle products!
How cool is it that there are tunnels, tombs, rooms filled with wine barrels filled with aging wine, and more down below the city. And it is all accessible here at this small shop.
Avignonesi – Sustainable and Classy
If you are looking for organic and sustainably produced wine, then this is where you want to go. Avignonesi is not only a high-end winery in the countryside of Montepulciano, it is also proud of its eco-friendly practices. This is something I love because I grew up on an organic farm and I am partial to this type of production.
You can participate in tours and tastings, and even a grand experience pairing wines with spectacular dishes. The tastings are personable and limited to small groups, which makes for an even more enjoyable experience.
Cantina De’Ricci – City Center & History
It is said to have “the most beautiful wine cellar in the world,” and lucky for all pedestrians, you can easily access the cellar near Piazza Grande. The cellar resembles a Roman Gothic cathedral, and thus has the nickname ‘the cathedral.’ With towering ceilings held up by stone pillars, the room is home to barrels of aging wines. It gives me chills of excitement to just think about it!
It is truly a step back in time when entering the cellar. It has pathways leading back into the depths of the tufo (local stone), so be careful not to get lost!
The winery produces the classic nobile wine of Montepulciano along with many other vintages. You will see them in old oak barrels as well as French-made wooden barrels in the cathedral.
Be sure to visit their site to book a tasting.
Cantina Gattavecchi – Wine + Food
Food and wine? Yes please! Count me in, especially if there is cheese.
Cantina Gattavecchi is also located near Piazza Grande and has a historical cellar to enjoy. Down in the cellars rests aging wine that won’t see bottles and markets for at least two years. It wouldn’t be a bad option for a bite to eat with a side of delightful wines. Just be sure to make a reservation. They have several tasting options to choose from with varying costs as well.
In 1944 the winery underwent a devastating bombing, but with perseverance, it was rebuilt by Valente Gattavecchi and his mother. This is a true story of new beginnings and finding the light in a bad situation.
Not to Miss Food
Pappardelle Pasta in Wild Boar Sauce
Tuscany is known for its boar, I have yet to see one but according to local menus, they are prevalent in the area. Along with being found in the wild, these boar are also kept and bred on local farms and used to make many dishes, including the wild boar sauce. The wild boar sauce you typically see is a ragu which is a tomato and meat-based sauce.
Pappardelle noodles resemble wide ribbons of pasta. Pasta consists of 2 ingredients, eggs and flour. The yokes of the eggs are what give the noodles that appetizing yellow color.
Pici all’aliogne
If you are a vegan or vegetarian, it can sometimes be hard to find a main dish at local eateries. With this dish, you are in luck as it is one of Tuscany’s vegan dishes. Pici is a classic noodle from the area. It resembles a thick spaghetti noodle, and I love it. Aglio is the Italian word for garlic, meaning that garlic lovers will also be happy. The sauce is a red sauce with garlic. Yum!
Where to Eat in Montepulciano
Il Pozzo Montepulciano
I find that this restaurant has a balanced menu for both vegetarians and carnivores. The prices may run a bit on the higher end, but for a special meal during your excursion, it may just be the best choice.
It is popular for both its food and phenomenal service. Sometimes I find that even if the food is good, the experience can be ruined by poor service, so it is good to know this will not be the case at Il Pozzo Montepulciano.
Website: https://www.ilpozzomontepulciano.it/en/index.html
Address: Piazza Michelozzo, 7
53045 Montepulciano
La Vineria di Montepulciano
Located in a cozy wine bar you will find affordable charcuterie boards filled with cheeses and if you’re a carnivore, a lot of prosciutto and sausage. They have several options of focaccia, first courses, and second.
This is where you would find me for all meals, as it has all of my favorite things. Wine, cheese, and pasta.
Address: Via di Gracciano nel Corso, 101
53045 Montepulciano SI
Where to Stay in Montepulciano
La Pievina – Farm Stay
Located just 2.5km from the center, La Pievina provides a peaceful oasis for its guests. Enjoy freshly made breakfasts, relax poolside, or read a book in the garden. You can easily access the farm from the A-1 and it is easy to get not only to Montepulciano but other nearby villages as well.
Address: Via Di Totona 32, 53045 Montepulciano, Italy
Il Corso – City Center
This large apartment hosts a large kitchen for preparing meals as well as postcard-worthy views of the surrounding valleys. Guests rave about its location and amenities.
You can bring the whole family as it accommodates up to 6 guests! Or make it a friends outing and take on all of the wine you can muster.
The unit covers 3 floors so ensuring that you can spread out and relax before and after exploring the town and eating at the nearby restaurants.
Address: Via Di Voltaia Nel Corso, Montepulciano
How to get there
There is a small train line that connects from Rome and Florence, the station lies a few kilometers outside of the town and is connected by bus to Montepulciano.
Car
From Siena: Montepulciano is about an hour south of Siena. You follow the SS715 almost all of the way there.
From Florence: Montepulciano is about 1.5 hours south of Florence. You follow the E35 for most of the trip.
Train/Bus
Note: that buses may not run on Sundays
From Rome
Train: Take the train to Chiusi station, about 1 hour, and then board the bus (Buses Ft4, Ft5, Ft4b) for another 48 minutes to the stop P.Ta Delle Farine Opp. From here you should be able to access the old town center.
From Florence
Train: ~1hr 48 minutes. Board train at Santa Maria Station to Chiusi-Chianciano T. station. Board bus (Buses Ft4, Ft5, Ft4b) to P.Ta Delle Farine stop.
Bus: 3 hours. Board the St6 to Bettolle Piazza Del Popolo, here take the St3 to P.Ta Delle Farine
Note: There are buses that run between nearby towns including Siena
