Visit Barga Italy, A Tuscan Gem

By: Travel With Wally

Maybe I have mentioned that Andrew and I don’t have a car. So we have to do our exploring on foot or by train. I scour google maps and the internet for the best destinations in Tuscany, then research the best ways to get to them without a car. One of the villages I found was Barga. I was excited to visit this small village, so off we set, two humans and one small dog, for the train station.

Located in the northwest of Tuscany in the province of Lucca, Barga is accessible by a train/bus combo, but most visit Barga with their cars. This way you can stop along the way at Ponte Della Maddalena (The Devil’s Bridge). You can also catch a glimpse of it on the train, but with a car you can stop and walk across the famous bridge. As I mentioned, we don’t have a car–but the train and bus worked out fine for us.

Taking the time to make a day trip to Barga is something I am very happy to have done. I am sure that you will be more than pleased with the historic and artistic village.

Getting to Barga

We took the train from Pisa to the Barga-Gallicano station, it was about 1.25 hours and cost 6.40 euros/person and 3.20 for Wally.

Upon arriving at the station, you still need to catch a bus to Barga’s city center. I had read you can also walk, but after taking the bus and seeing where you would walk, I would NOT recommend walking. The road is narrow, very curvy, and busy with cars.

After vetoing the one vote to walk (thank goodness), we found the bus stop. It is directly across from the station next to the parking lot adjacent to the pharmacy. There was nowhere to buy a ticket. We tried and even asked the police officer we saw.

We had about half an hour to wait before the next bus, which arrives approximately every hour, so we decided to have breakfast and a cappuccino at the neighboring cafe.

It is a nice little cafe to wait at, as it has outdoor seating and a grassy area that Wally enjoyed. We happily enjoyed pastries and coffee before the next leg of our venture.

Once the bus arrived it had to wait for the bus that was coming down the hill from Barga. The road is so narrow that two buses cannot pass each other. And Andrew had wanted to walk!

You will go through the outskirts of the village and then the bus will take you to the top of the hill. We got off a stop earlier as we didn’t realize it went all the way up.

Check out our post 8 Tips for Travelling with Dogs in Italy!

Arriving in Barga

Barga has a quintessential Italian vibe to it. The village has even been listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. It is located in the Tuscan-Apennine Hills and sits on one of the hillsides. To traverse the streets you need to feel comfortable walking up and down the steep incline, but I would definitely say that it’s worth it.

There are a lot of outdoor activities you can try, such as hiking or horseback riding. Barga has been praised for its tourist services, so it is easy to find out the easiest ways to indulge in your favorite outdoor hobbies. For more information check HERE

Barga’s City Center

The only way to go is up. Up up up. It is a village on the side of a very tall hill after all. The ‘climb’ is completely worth it to reach the top which rewards you with panoramic vista views. Remember that you can take the bus to the top and then make your way down as well.

You can stop off at the small shops selling clothing, specialty foods, and more. I was excited to find Italian-inspired dish towels that will make great gifts for family and friends. The best part? They were only 3 euros a piece!

At the top of the mountain sits an old cathedral with the best views in town. The Cathedral of San Cristoforo looks less like a grand cathedral from the medieval era, and more like a miniature castle. It has a tall square tower that looms above you as you approach and it lacks the intricate decorative details we have grown to expect from the gothic style.

The cathedral dates all the way back to before the year 1000 and is built in the Romanesque style. It has been modified over the years to hold decorative aspects from Romanesque to gothic styles. But I found these details to be subtle while admiring the exterior. The interior is graceful, with beautiful arches.

Once we reached San Cristoforo’s Cathedral, we spent a lot of time taking in the sweeping views of neighboring mountains, villages, and vineyards. Wally enjoyed the wide, grassy lawns and the shade of a very large and beautiful tree. He made some new friends and we basked in the glow of the Italian countryside.

We then headed back down the way we had come and began to make turns at random, just to explore. The streets are narrow and many are only for pedestrians. You can wind up and down and side to side, always with a new twist to take. We stumbled across brightly colored sheets hung outside windows, small gardens, and locals chatting with friends.

It was a warm day and we were in the mood for a refreshing beverage. We were lucky to find a nice quiet cafe with a beautiful view from the terrace. After a refreshing ginger lemonade for the humans and a bowl of water for Wally, we did a bit more exploring.

Barga is a small village and it doesn’t take very long to see everything, but it’s still fun to look for new nooks and crannies.

Lunch

Barga is in a region that is rich in wild mushrooms and chestnuts, and it just so happened to be truffle season. I love truffles, especially when they are on pasta. We were not aware that it was truffle season until we stumbled upon a small restaurant named Scacciaguai. What a happy surprise!

There was a small and peaceful area to eat outdoors. I preferred eating outside even before COVID, but constant traffic going by is a big and annoying turn-off for me. This was not the case at Scacciaguai.

We had a very pleasant lunch of truffle pasta, salad, delicious bread, and prosecco. We finished our meal in my new favorite way, with a coffee. Italy has spoiled me with long meals full of delicious food and I love the custom of finishing with an espresso.

On the Way Home

We had successfully explored the city center of Barga in about half a day. I would love to go back and try some local hiking and maybe do some mushroom hunting. It is in such a rustic setting and has many of the aspects I look for in a village to visit or even live in.

While we waited for the next bus to bring us down the mountain, we decided to check out a park that sits in a small valley and against an old viaduct. If you are walking up to the old city center, then you will pass a red telephone booth and bright yellow bench. From here you can walk down a path to the small but pleasant park.

On the bus, Wally began to fall asleep in my arms after his long day of exploration. He is such a good dog and he was rewarded with a lot of pets and treats when we got home later in the afternoon.

Barga is a special village that may be small in size but still has something for everyone. It has a special medieval charm and peaceful atmosphere. I found it to be a sort of miniature Siena. A day trip or even a weekend trip to Barga will be a pleasant and relaxing escape.

Fun Facts About Barga

It is known as Italy’s most ‘Scottish Town.’
Giovanni Pascoli, the poet, chose Barga to be his second home. He loved it so much, he chose to be buried there after his death.
Barga hosts many events from antique markets to music festivals to a fish’N’chip festival (bringing in the Scottish connection)