How To Hike and Explore Cinque Terre in One Day

Written By: Travel With Wally

Welcome to the Dreamy Cinque Terre

Imagine brightly colored buildings built into seaside ravines, small protected bays, and majestic seaside views.  This is Cinque Terre (meaning ‘five lands’), a World UNESCO site located along the Ligurian Sea between Genoa and Pisa.  To hike Cinque Terre, is a special experience that I am excited for you to enjoy.

You may be wondering if it’s possible to hike and enjoy Cinque Terre in one day. The answer is yes- It is possible to hike Cinque Terre’s inter-village trails and explore each village all in one day. Alternatively, spending a night or two in one of the quaint and peaceful villages will allow a more thorough and relaxed way to experience the magic of Cinque Terre. However, that isn’t always what time allows and we are here to help you hike and see Cinque Terre in one day.

Consisting of five quaint and unique fishing villages, Cinque Terre is one of the most visited sites in Italy. When we visited it was just starting to become crowded as COVID-19 restrictions were beginning to lift within Italy. But honestly, it wasn’t THAT crowded.  

The Villages

The villages, starting at the northernmost, include: Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.  In the past you were only able to get between villages by foot, traveling well-worn paths up and down the cliffs. 

You are still able to hike between the villages of Cinque Terre, but fair warning, be ready for a lot of stone steps and wear appropriate hiking footwear. When we visited, only two paths were open while the other two were under repair due to landslides over a decade ago.

I admit that the trail closures did make our hiking goal easier to achieve. We recommend that you check online about the status of the trails before you leave. There are other alternative hiking paths you can take as well and they vary in difficulty and length, making it possible to hike between all five of the villages.  You can find more information about these trails here.

Our One-Day Journey to Cinque Terre 

Our day started at 6 AM. We grabbed our day packs, dressed Wally in his harness, and headed for the train station.  We made sure we had his water bowl and passport as well. Lucky for us, we live less than a mile from Pisa Centrale, the train station in central Pisa. 

We had booked our tickets the night before on the phone application ‘Trainline’, but we had to stop at one of the ticket kiosks to buy Wally his half price ticket. Travel tickets are required for dogs, so you should give yourself extra time to purchase the ticket at the station.

Our train journey first brought us to La Spezia (approximately 1 hour), where we then hopped on the train that services all of the Cinque Terre villages.   The trip took approximately 22 minutes to Monterosso from La Spezia. 

We had decided that we would begin in Monterosso because we wanted to do our inter-village Cinque Terre hikes before the end of the day.  As I mentioned before, only two of the main trails were open, and they happened to be the two trails between Monterosso and Corniglia. 

There are some longer and more strenuous hikes above Cinque Terre that you can take that were also open, but we decided that we would skip those this time.  Wally had already trekked 9+ miles. To hike Cinque Terre can be tiring for a little dog.

Monterosso

When we arrived in Monterosso, we wandered up and down the main ‘roads.’ None of the local artisan shops were open yet, but we only wanted to look around.  We enjoyed the only flat terrain we would come across during our journey and even found a local cat to befriend.

By this time we were hungry for some breakfast, so we went to the seaside where there is a large sandy beach with the option for beachgoers to rent an umbrella and chair for €20 ($23.50). The open parts of the beach are public and you are free to lay out a towel and enjoy the water and sound of the whispering waves.  This is definitely the biggest beach we saw and only one of two sandy spots. We stopped at a small cafe that had seating along the street and views across the water.  After a coffee and cornetto (croissant), we headed off to find our trailhead. 

We didn’t spend a lot of time in Monterosso, and that’s for two reasons.  One, we live close enough to come back.  That is unfortunately not the case for most people, so feel free to stay and explore or relax.  Two, we wanted to get started on our hike as we had a lot of ground to cover and villages to explore.    If you have more time I encourage you to explore the streets and alleyways.  

Hike Cinque Terre, part 1

Trail length/time Monterosso-Vernazza: 4.2 kms / 2.6 miles & 1.5-2 hours  

We had not previously purchased our trail pass, but the hut was closed (they open at 9 am) when we arrived and we decided to proceed and hopefully buy one at the other end.  We try to be as honest as possible and also wanted to help with the upkeep of the well-traveled trails.  

You can purchase passes to hike and explore Cinque Terre in either one or two days.

We had to walk along a road where we were occasionally passed by service trucks.  I can only assume they are providing services such as food to shops and waste removal for the accessible villages.  We then came to the trailhead (trail SVA2 or blue trail), and we headed up…and up…and up… Oofda, were there a lot of steps.  Wally had no issue – it was full steam ahead for the little guy.  I admittedly was in the back of the pack, even though I do exercise, I promise!    If you are a seasoned hiker, then this is not a difficult trail.  It just so happened that I was out of practice.  

Be sure to keep your eye out for the trail markers (red and white lines), usually painted on the rocks, trees, or wooden posts along the path.  This will keep you from wandering off in the wrong direction. 

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Discovering on the Trail

Sometimes you would come across a contraption that I related to a roller coaster track, but it had a small cart on it and we speculate that it was used to transport supplies to the farms and homes down along the cliffs.  People had built small farms on the cliffs, like mountain goats carefree on a sheer cliffside.  Some were mending and fixing their rock retaining walls, and they had large sacks of stones. I assume they used one of the carts on the tracks to transport them. I am still astonished by the innovations that people come up with.  They cared for their grape vines and gardens and other than the hikers, they lived a quiet and calm life.  Or so I liked to imagine.

Was this hike worth it? Absolutely!  The vista views alone made it worth it.  But, in the early morning the air is crisp and the shade is plentiful, so we had a much easier time than we would have in the heat of midday. The crowds were minimal this early and so it allowed us to enjoy the sounds of nature.  Plus, the views of Vernazza from above were nothing less than breathtaking. 

Vernazza

As we came around a bend in the trail we were able to catch a glimpse of this quintessential Italian fishing village.  It is known to be one of the most beautiful towns in Italy and it doesn’t take long to see why.  Its brilliantly painted buildings create a crescent around its little harbor full of small fishing boats. (It is the only village with a natural harbor, and it was established that this was the only place boats could come to transport the region’s fine wine).  The village’s most well-known church, Santa Margherita d’Antiochia, hosts a 40 meter high and octagonal tower that welcomed us into the village. 

The Village

One of our favorite parts was the Castello, one of the last watch towers standing from the reign of the Republic of Genoa. We paid €2 each to enter. It provides gorgeous views of the village, sea, and surrounding seaside cliffs.  We spent time giving water to Wally and putting some more sun lotion on to prevent any scorched skin in the brilliant Italian sun.  

There is also a small beach area protected by a rock jetty in the heart of the city. It is a calm area where you can take a nice dip in the crystal blue water.  Apparently there is another, slightly larger, beach, but we didn’t come across it.  Vernazza is also a stop for the ferry that you can take between all villages aside from Corniglia.  

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There are many cute shops, restaurants and places to sit and enjoy the day with a coffee or aperitif.  I wish I had gotten a couple of souvenirs here, as they were a bit cheaper than in the other villages, and very similar.  One of the highlights for me was a cat sleeping outside of one of the main shops.  I love finding cats along our journeys. 

Afterwards, we explored the auto-free streets and alleys and enjoyed a refreshing cola.  After our drinks, we decided to continue on our way.  

Hike Cinque Terre part 2

Trail length/time Vernazza-Corniglia: 3.4 kms / 2.1 miles & 1.5-2 hours

Follow the signs for the blue trail heading south out of town. You follow the road toward the train station and then take a sharp right. The trailhead was easy to find because of the clear and easy-to-see signs. 

This is where we found a hut that was open and we bought our trail passes.  We decided to opt out of the train pass as we were going to end up only needing the train for a couple of stops.  In the long run, it was cheaper that way.  Remember to bring cash with you if you did not previously purchase your pass.  

Vernazza to Corniglia

Starting on our Cinque Terre hike from Vernazza to Corniglia, the views were not to be missed.  It is said to be the trail with the most beautiful sights. Make sure to look behind you and admire Vernazza from another angle.  You can see the peninsula full of colorful homes jutting into the vividly blue water.

Rick Steves was right, this really was a breathtaking trail both in regard to views and difficulty.  It has a significant elevation change, and it even hosts the highest point that you can hike Cinque Terre on the blue trail. It is at this point where a small cafe is located and you can stop for a refreshing lemonade and snack.  We decided that we would continue to Corniglia and have some lunch with a cold beer.  

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I fell in love with Corniglia as soon as I saw it.  It sits atop a cliff without direct access to the sea (this is why the ferry doesn’t stop here).  But it is beautiful.  The trail brings you through a vineyard where you are surrounded by vines dripping with grapes.  

As we took our first steps into the village, there was a water fountain with a dog’s water dish hanging next to it for all of the trail pups.  I thought it was such a kind and sweet gesture for all of the well-traveled canines.  We always make sure to bring enough water along for Wally, but we offered him some from this vineyard adjacent to the water hole. Lucky dog. We then headed into the village to explore and find some lunch.

Corniglia

Corniglia sees fewer tourists than the other villages. Perhaps due to it being the only village to not have direct access to the water, so those solely taking the ferry will have to forego this sleepy village. Corniglia is a laid back and quiet village that doesn’t host a wide variety of restaurants.  But, it was my favorite village.  I prefer the quiet and out of the ordinary.

We were craving a cold beer, which was odd as we had been walking through vineyards all morning and this area is famous for its wine production.  We were able to find a little restaurant that had a pleasant terrace overlooking the village and the sea, Bar la Scuna.  We are vegetarians, so finding food can be somewhat challenging.  We went way outside of the Italian box and got veggie burgers, which were okay, but everyone seemed to be enjoying their meals that consisted of traditional sliced meats and cheese. 

After taking a relaxing break, both for us and for Wally, we decided to take the train to Manarola.  Heads up, the trip down to the train was filled with stairs.  A seemingly endless switchback of steps. (Needless to say, I was not envious of the folks arriving and heading up the stair ‘mountain’.)

Once you finally make it down what feels like endless steps, you can head to the small station.  The ticket only cost about €4/$5 each. I bought them on Trainline, but they did have kiosks and a small ticket counter.  Currently, I am a big fan of buying them online or via a phone application because it means cutting down on using shared screens, buttons, paper, etc. And in the current state of COVID-19, we prefer to lower our chances of getting the nasty virus.  

Manarola

First let me say, all three of us were happy not to be hiking again.  I was bummed to miss the experience and views, but I was tuckered out. 

You can get to Manarola via all four modes of transportation (car, train, ferry, hike).  The hike is one of the alternatives to the traditional ‘blue’ trail.  The train is the most highly recommended way but it is also accessible by car.  You will have to park in a paid lot and hike down the hillside to the main piazza.  You can then walk through the tunnel to the main attractions.

Manarola is one of the Cinque Terre villages that is built back into the cliffs. The homes and colorful buildings tower above you as you venture along the narrow roads and alleyways. There is a nice overlook of the bay at the bottom of the lane.  You can then follow a narrow lane down towards the water.  Here you will see that there are paths that lead up both sides of the cliffs.  We decided to head up on the right side.  We were rewarded with panoramic views of the village and the sea.   At the top you will find a small park where Wally enjoyed the grass and smelling the local news on all of the bushes.  People were laid out to relax and enjoy the sunny rays.  There is also a busy cafe located here that looks out over the village and sea.  

Eating and Swimming

If you are hungry, there are many options of osterias and cafes to choose from.  Many restaurants serve fish, which is what the villages are most known for in addition to their wine.  They are also known for their delicious pesto.  Cinque Terre is where the traditional pesto we are familiar with originates.  Did you know that in Italian, ‘pesto’ means paste? 

If you feel like getting wet, you will have to maneuver the large rock outcroppings.  It is not a pleasant sandy beach, but is uniquely beautiful with its clear and pristine water.  It has the best deep water swimming in the area. There is a narrow boat ramp where people have carefully laid out their towels, and from here the water is much more accessible.  I wished very badly that I had worn the proper attire to go for a dip in the sea.  I recommend you bring a swimsuit, just in case you end up feeling the urge to jump in.  I know I will be sure to bring one when we return.  

At this point we were getting pretty tired, or at least I was.  But we were determined to see the fifth and final village.  So we headed to the train.

Riomaggiore

Wow, am I glad we powered through and came to Riomaggiore.  It is a gem to be seen along the sea. Riomaggiore is built up into the cliffside and if you want to explore, then you will probably have to climb some stairs.  The main street covers the Rivus Maior stream, from which the village gets its name.  A neat little fact is that the building materials for the homes and other buildings are local.  Something I have learned about Italians is that they love staying local with their materials, food, and pretty much everything else.  

We decided to wander around a bit. I went into a market and bought some lemons and a jar of local pesto.  We then found our way down to the marina.  You have to go along a concrete path between the rocks, and along the path you will pass by a public restroom.  A lucky find in my case.  The marina is small and rocky.  It is the only location in the village to find access to the sea, but it is a rocky area which requires care by swimmers.  

After enjoying the water and admiring the bright blue fishing boats pulled up onto the shore, we decided to head back to the train station and head home. It was about 4 PM.  It had been a long day, especially for Wally.  his eyelids were getting quite heavy as we ventured home.  

Hiking Cinque Terre, A Conclusion

We had a wonderful and exhausting day in Cinque Terre, and I can’t wait to go back.  I highly recommend the hike(s), as they provide a special perspective to your trip.  Just remember to be careful and bring enough water, especially in the summer.  It would be great to spend more time in each village, so when we return I might choose to take the train or even spend the night enjoying the sunset and stars.  

We have added some notes and helpful hints below.  

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Trail Lengths/Times:

Trail length/time Monterosso-Vernazza: 4.2 kms / 2.6 miles & 1.5-2 hours  

Trail length/time Vernazza-Corniglia: 3.4 kms / 2.1 miles & 1.5-2 hours

• Currently only these two sections of the blue trail are open.  Look into alternative routes here.

Notes

• Be aware of your fitness level.  These hikes are very doable, they are mostly well packed down from the many feet that walk them.  However, they do have a reasonable amount of elevation change and areas where the terrain is rocky or uneven. The hike between Vernazza and Corniglia has the highest point of elevation of all the trails.  Make sure to make time for water breaks, especially in the summer months and if you are bringing your four legged pal along.
• Be sure to wear appropriate footwear: shoes with good soles and that your feet won’t slip around in.  The trail can be uneven and you can injure yourself if you do not take care.  You can also acquire a fine of up to €2,500 for wearing open toed shoes (such as flip-flops) in the park, be careful! 
• You need to pay a one-time fee to use the trails. You can also get a train card or a combination of the two (combo may only be available at the welcome centers/huts, we were offered them in Vernazza).  These are onsite at the welcome centers of each village as well as online and at the small huts that bookend each trail.
• Currently only these two sections of the blue trail are open.  Look into alternative routes here.
• This is a National Park and World UNESCO site.  It is our responsibility as visitors to be respectful.  Please make sure to clean up and throw away any trash, stay on the trails, and pay for your trail pass.  This can go a long way in helping to keep it a treasured gem.  

How to get there

Train 

The Train is the best way to travel between the villages.  The cost is about 4Euros per ride or you can get the treno card (€16/person/24 hours and €29/person/48 hours). The price includes the hiking trails as well. 

*From Pisa the cost of the train was about €23/person round trip.  

Ferry

From La Spezia you can travel to the different villages via a ferry (all but Corniglia).  This allows for another view of the cliffs and villages.  The price of the tickets can vary, so be sure to check here. You can also find the timetable for the ferry here.  The ferry only runs between April 1st and November 1st.

Car

It is possible to get around by car, but the roads can be difficult and parking is very limited.  There are some villages that have shuttles that can take you between the parking lots and villages.  
You can look up more details and up to date information here

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